If nothing else opens up, I would probably wait until about the fourth pass through the hand, and then put the 4♥ on the 5♣, and proceed from there. It just takes time for all this to develop. If the speculation that you see is correct - if the 4♦ is under the 8♣ - then all I need is a red 9, so I can put it and the 8♣ over on the 10♣, exposing the 4♦. But in general, I'd wait until the third pass. It makes the game longer, but I'm more likely to win.īut if it's one of those games in which good moves just keep opening up, low-ranking cards as well as Aces and Kings, then I'd probably take my chances during the second pass through the hand, and put the 4♥ on the 5♣. If very few cards get moved, I would resist the temptation to cover that 5♣ even through the next pass. Seeing that 4♥ in my hand, and that 5♣ in that column, I would leave the 4♥ in my hand when making my first (and probably second) pass in the hopes that maybe I could move the 5♣ to its Ace pile. Then we can expose what's under the 4♦, as well as what's under the 3♠. Besides: what if we find the other red 4 in one of the columns? This would be the 4♦, the counterpart to the 4♥ we have in the hand. The narrow gray row represents some number of face-down, unexposed cards.)īut the 5♣ and the 4♥ aren't high-ranking cards early in the game, it would be nice to keep them uncovered, so that we can move them to their Ace piles if the time comes.īut, what is under that 3♠ …? Well, we don't need to answer that right away. (See diagram below, and the following paragraph. If you have a black 5 at the bottom of one column, and a black 3 at the top of another, then a red 4 does help, so that you can expose what’s under the black 3. Here's a more complicated example (and the resolution is below). (In fact, in this case, once you have the two red 2s on their Ace piles, you have no need for either black 3 in the columns.) So hold out for a couple passes before using that 3♣. If there are still a number of cards in the columns which are face-down, unexposed, then the other black 3, the 3♠, may be among them, and you need to uncover and flip all those cards to be able to win the game. Suppose you have the 4♦ at the bottom of a column, and the 3♣ shows up in your hand. Every card has its counterpart (e.g., the 5♣ and 5♠), and it's generally better to use the card from a column than its counterpart in the hand, so you can expose more cards.Low-ranking cards can get in the way of other moves (not always, but often).And when you do want to put a 10 on an Ace pile, that'll be later in the game, and the odds will be good that the 9 will either have been moved, or be movable.) (It's unlikely you'll get a chance to put a 10 on an Ace pile this early. And putting a black 9 on a red 10 probably won't hurt you this early in the game. Aces and 2s should always be put in their Ace piles as soon as they can be. Some say not to make any moves on your first pass through the hand, but that’s overdoing it. Often the same is true for the second pass through as well. On your first pass through your hand, you don't know what you have to work with yet, but it's safe to say, avoid covering low-ranking cards in the columns, up to around 5 (that is, avoid putting a 4 on a 5). Before you start going through the hand, things aren't too complicated, but when you can, it's always better to move a card in the seven columns, than to pull one from the hand. Once the Solitaire game is laid out, focus on moving cards that are in the seven columns before drawing from the hand, so that more cards in the columns can be exposed. If you want to beat the game of solitaire, or klondike solitaire, here are 16 tips and strategies to help you. Every time you move a card, another card - or cards - may be harder to move later. Maybe the most basic lesson to learn is not to make a move just because it can be made. This site has loads of tips, ideas, and strategies, along with explanations and diagrams. Winning Solitaire is like solving a puzzle - you need to get the pieces where they belong.
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